Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Train Spotters / Day Trippers - a day on the Watercress Line.

Alton, Ropley, Medstead, Alresford - the trains on the Watercress line go back and forth on a relaxed journey back in time.

Cathy and I boarded the 'Bodmin West Country Class' at Alton on a perfect summer's day; the only dark clouds in sight were the smoke plumes from the engine.

As the train pulled slowly away from the station we made for the windows, cameras in hand to get the obligatory face full of smoke and to try to snap some action shots. The rolling green landscape was picture-book perfect, the progress slow but steady.

We wound past old abandoned rolling stock, rusting away slowly in the heat of the day. A lone man with a metal detector in a field didn't notice our passing, lost in the dream of finding treasure no doubt. The cows paid no heed, resting under the trees to escape the heat.

Shaking hairfuls of soot all over the train tables and seats, we decided to clamber off the Bodmin at the first stop, Ropley, to view the train yard.

The attention to detail on this route is unique. At each station stop, the staff are dressed 1920's style, complete with pocket watches on chains. Somehow it doesn't feel out of place as it is done with carefully studied English understatement. There isn't any feeling that this is all just a big show. The staff you meet are genuine, the trains and stations restored with care.
It's an underlying passion mixed with everyday sensibility.

Our fellow travellers were a great bunch. We were mistaken for real train spotters by some, as we were taking the types of photos more associated with enthusiasts.
If truth be told, we were just having fun with cameras, neither of us really knowing that much about trains, but we didn't want to spoil the expectations of that special "train spotter" breed and we shared the enthusiasm anyway.

The next train from Ropley was an old diesel which took us past Medstead to Alresford for our "half way stop" and a much needed pint of cider and bite to eat.

Alresford is an old market town with a wide high street, aptly named 'Broad street'
It sports a pink Barclays bank, which was amusing.

We headed for 'The Globe on the Lake' and arrived early enough to get a table in the garden, overlooking the Ducks, Swans, Geese and occasional Coot in a feeding frenzy. Small children, wielding chunks of bread, were having a riot of fun throwing it at the Ducks.

Dodging the wasps and midges, we enjoyed a tasty chicken pie and cold cider and eventually dragged ourselves away for the return journey.

We misjudged the train times, after having a half pint at 'The Swan Hotel' and decided that another half at 'The Horse & Groom' was in order.

The next train back was a Diesel, so we decided to stop at Medstead and wait for the final steam train. Medstead wasn't that memorable, aside from some of the old restored adverts at the station, one in particular, advertising 'Nosegay Tobacco'

As we boarded the train back to Alton, sharing cool white wine in plastic cups, we had a chat with a fellow couple. The husband had worked on the railways before retiring, so he had a few interesting stories to tell.

The journey back was too short. Ahh but for a few more hours gently rolling through the lush English countryside, with great company, in a timeless place.


All in all, it was a perfect day.





Thursday, July 06, 2006

The Green Hills of Home

It's been eight months back "home" and I'm no closer to really understanding my connection to this island of my birth.

I suppose I'm a colonial in some odd way, with the blood of Africa somehow entrenched into my Phyche, for I cannot shake the deep marks that Africa has left on my personality. Not that I would want to do that, I love that aspect of my history.

Life in Africa as shaped me as surely as my English heritage has, but does it really matter?

I'm not sure, I haven't figured that one out yet. As much as I'd love to claim to be beyond these aspects of life, I'm not.

A personal history matters a great deal, it defines your personality, your outlook and thus, in a generic sense, your future.

I'd given up England as being my Home many years ago, having assimilated myself into life in South Africa, but below the surface there was always the Englishman. The full extent of what that means may never return, because again we come back around to "what does it matter?"

It matters a lot, it really does. As much as I'd love to declare myself "a citizen of the planet", life doesn't work that way.

I have these deep stirrings, this ancestral memory perhaps? - Bollocks I hear you say - but I truly feel like I belong in this land, which I never really did in South Africa. This is the land of my ancestors.

Everywhere I go, I'm reminded that this is home - there's no alien feeling at all, but often there's mild confusion and amusement as I try to figure out the huge gaps I have missing in my personal history of England.

I can chat with my fellow work mates and friends I've met and have a connection, but England and the UK have changed dramatically in the years I've been in South Africa. We have the common ground of youth - the TV programs, the cultural icons of years past, but 20 years away is a long time.

Sometimes that gap means nothing, other times it's like a chasm which will never be crossed.

This is the fifth time I've shipped back "home" and in some ways it's been the most difficult.

The brief history?

1976 (aged 8) - Family moves from England to South Africa
1978 - Family moves back to England
1981 - Family moves back to South Africa
1984 - Parents divorce, Mother returns to England
1989 - I return to England
1990 - I return to South Africa
1993 - I spend two months back in England
1998/2004 - A few weeks back in England
2005 - I return to England

Am I English, am I South African?

Well, right now, I'm English - adopt or die...

Monday, July 03, 2006

Steaming Hot...

This country just isn't geared toward hot weather.

It's been pretty damn warm for a few days - in fact, it's been bloody hot. I've faced worse, but in places where they are used to temperatures hitting the "high sweats"

In England, when the heat goes above 30, the government issues warnings - yep, no kidding.
The "Nanny State" kicks into gear and tells everyone to drink more water, keep out of the sun - basically, they tell everyone how to live thier lives. Gee, thanks Government, if you hadn't told me, I'd be out there naked in the sun, without fluids, running a country mile!

Hey England, it's called "heat" - get over it!

I must admit, it has been very difficult to sleep at night for a while and I have had a whinge or two myself, heck, I've had nightmares during this heat wave. Perhaps that's the odd thing?

An English heat wave seems to be worse at night, as the heat of the day radiates outward from the streets and buildings and we all get sweaty and start to stick to our beds (ick)

My solution so far is to consume lots of cider, but that's my solution for most things, so I suppose it doesn't count.

Opening the window at night isn't an option, too many bugs, too much noise.

So, as we face yet another night of radiated heat, I've cracked my fifth cider and shall remain steadfast in my quest to beat this heatwave by remaining drunk.

If only I could convince my boss of my grand scheme ...