Birmingham Revisited

I'm on the train back to London, once again crammed into a seat with my trusty laptop and a fair bit more luggage than I arrived with. (An awesome knee length soft leather jacket, a Nike day pack, a set of great portable speakers for my laptop, a mini kettle, a cafeteria and a packed lunch.) - Nice to see ya, to see ya nice ! (Thanks Mom !)

It was a very relaxing weekend, with an evening out in Henley-in-Arden for a curry at Arden, arguably the best curry I've ever had. Apparently it's the best Curry place in the Midlands.

Mom and I headed into Birmingham on Sunday and passed through Tysley on the train, a place where I spent a few months on various training courses back in the late 90's
I remember the place always smelling like stale damp dishrags, however, there was just a whiff of diesel and smog so my memories remained in the background.

Birmingham is a completely revitalised place. From the late 60's to the late 90's it really was the brunt of so many jokes, some rather unpleasant. Once a powerhouse of industry, sporting more canals than Venice, Birmingham hit a slump in the 60's which wasn't helped by a spree of rebuilding. Wonderful buildings were torn down and replaced by tower blocks and concrete and a road system so unfriendly to pedestrians shopping became a chore. Prior to the 60's Birmingham was a bustling city and a pleasure to visit. I think something must've been put in the city councils drinking water at the time, because the things they built could only have been designed and approved by raving loonies.

The new millenium has seen Birmingham rise from a mire of concrete and roads into a fantastic city of culture and a brilliant place to shop. In the centre, all roads have been closed to traffic and paved over, leaving tree lined boulevards and a cafe society. The canals have been opened up and renovated and you can walk for miles along their banks, stopping for a bite to eat or a pint.

The change is so dramatic and so heart lifting it has made Birmingham one of Britains major shopping destinations and once again, a proud European city.
As a Brummie, it certainly makes me glad that my city is no longer the brunt of jokes, but rather a great place to visit.

At the centre of it all, is the famous Bullring next to St. Martins church. It has been a bustling market place since the 1200's, however, the 60's obsession with concrete turned it into an ugly place. Only the people made it worth visiting, as brummies are a cheerful lot for the most part. The Bull Ring is now a shining example of how modern architecture can blend with old. The bronze statue of the Bull at the centre of the Bullring is a powerful symbol of the cities new found direction. It was recently vandalised, but such is the love of this symbol, the people of Birmingham paid to have it repaired and nobody will damage it again, such was the public outcry. Of course, this being Birmingham, people are more than welcome to let their kids clamber all over it and have photos taken.

Birmingham sports art galleries, theatres, restaurants, an aquarium and the best shopping experience in the Midlands.

The fact that it has an Apple shop really puts the shopping experience into perspective - a spare £2000 would've come in very handy, those 30" flat screens really are something to drool over.

If your based in London for a reasonable amount of time, Birmingham is a must visit. Considering it is only two and a half hours from Marylebone London on Chiltern rail, it's possible to visit for the day. It will also give new visitors to England a different perspective on British life and culture beyond what London has to offer.
Head out on the first train from Marylebone (£25 return) and you should be in Birmingham by 11am. Enough time to take in the shopping, a stroll down the canal banks and a long lunch before a very relaxing train journey back - there are only a few stops along the route.

November 7 2005 11am